I swear, this mobile civic holiday is the oddest thing. The whole province getting up at 6m to listen to the radio and find out if the weather is good enough to row on one little lake in Quidi Vidi – and if it is, the entire province closes and everyone has a holiday. Nobody goes to work, no mail comes, everything is closed….Newfoundland is a really big place, and every city, town, outport and village gets a proper day off on Regatta Day and the whole thing gets decided in the morning based on the weather. I’d say it was crazy but I’ve been living their weather for a couple of days now, and I totally get it.
This morning the sun finally came out a little, and the Royal St. John’s Regatta went grandly ahead after a two day delay, full of pomp, history and outstanding good humour. From the Grandparents backyard in Quidi Vidi we could see one end of the lake, and sure enough, rowers appeared straight away this morning, turning at this end before heading back to the party end of the lake. There’s a whole lot of races run all day, whittling down the teams until there’s only the male and female championships left to run in the evening, so we did some other stuff before heading down. I for one, finished a sock.
That’s the first of a pair of Hibiscus for Hope socks (you can get the pattern by sponsoring Ramona in the 60k walk that is the Toronto weekend to end breast cancer fundraiser) in the very pretty and pink “Rosebud” STR – lightweight.
I left the other half of the skein balled up on my chesterfield in Toronto, but Ken launched a rescue by sending it along to me here…
Unfortunately, today was Regatta Day and no mail delivery (and Saturdays don’t have mail delivery in Canada at all – never mind in Quidi Vidi) so I’m hoping it will turn up soon. Pretty single sock non-the less. Finishing that meant I had to take another sock on our hike today – but luckily, I am a complete professional who packed more knitting projects than clothes. (I admit, on some of the nippier days here, I have regretted the proportion there.)
While Old Joe took the ladies to Water Street for a poke about, Joe and I walked to the old village of Quidi Vidi and into the harbour (“The Gut”)
and had a beer and a black horse in the oddest little pub down the lane.
When we got back, Old Joe, Joe, the ladies and I, set up a nearby hill, on a hike that Old Joe assured me was perfectly safe and a “walk for old ladies”.
He’s simply out of his mind. I want to know how many old ladies per year that hike kills. It ended up being another hike that gave me cramps while I watched the girls cavort on the edges of yet more cliffs of doom – although in a moment that I am sure took years off of their lives, it was me who slipped for a second and flirted with death. (Ironically, this moment occurred because I thought Sam wasn’t being careful enough and stopped concentrating on my own footwork so that I could urge caution on her part. I feel that the planetary shove in the direction of the cliffs edge was just the earths way of coming down hard on the side of Old Joe and my husband, who think that a little danger is good for kids and I should lighten up. They’re likely right. The kids are steady as rocks out there.)
The team gave a big rock a shove…
Old Joe thinks that it likely moves a little each time they do this, and that after years of effort his various grandchildren will eventually succeed in pushing the thing of the cliff and into the sea. (He is not the sort of man who needs instant gratification.)
The girls think it’s a grand rock for sitting on.
(I think that shoving it to make it loose and then sitting on it while it’s tipped to the sea like that is madness. Joe thinks I should drink less coffee.) We mad our final assault on the summit, then wound our way back down, looking over Quidi Vidi Harbour, Quidi Vidi Lake (where the Regatta is) and St. John’s on the way.
When we were all the way down, we went the whole way around the lack and took in the Championship races. (Very Exciting.) It was more than grand, and I’m going to let the rest of the pictures speak for themselves – with just a couple of captions.
Click to embiggen any shot.
Smiles: Constabulary, dog, coxswain of the women’s champions.
food – Chips, gravy, dressing… samosas…. moose burgers.
The Lake side Motel (Aka Her Majesty’s Penitentiary) overlooking the whole Regatta.
Games of chance:
Rides:
Stuff:
Row, row, row a boat:
I don’t think there’s anything like it. The soundtrack for the whole thing was the CLB (Church Lads Brigade) Band playing grand Newfoundlander classics wafting along the water.
It was worth the wait.
remarkably lovely day. remarkably lovely sock.
Sounds like you had a grand day. Hope the rest of your vacation is as much fun.
No mail on Saturdays in Canada? Do you have mail on Sundays?
And what is a black horse?
Thank you for bringing us along on your holiday!
But who won? Am I the only one who expected a shot of the winning team posing with the sock?
It’s quite possible that you’ve already mentioned it, but what yarn is the sock posing on the rock knit from? I like it.
I shudder at kids on clliff edges, too.
(The “lack”? the “lac” perhaps?)
The sock is beautiful!
The province of Friesland in the Netherlands has a race called the Elfstedentocht (11 city race), which is an ice skating race on the canals connecting 11 cities in the province and is only held during winters when it’s cold enough so that the ice on all the canals connecting the cities is thick enough. People who want to race buy tickets each year just in case it’s cold enough; most often it isn’t. People train hard just in case there will be a race that year; most often there isn’t one. But when it is, it’s announced only a day or two before the race (so you have to be ready), and the whole province shuts down so that everyone can watch the race.
Woo Hoo, am I in the top 10 again! I’m so cool.
Looks like a really fun day though, even if no one fell off the cliff. Do you have any idea the hunt that has ensued since your posting of that coverlet on Cape Spear? Tell them over there to prepare themselves for a slew of requests…
Wow, the pictures are just beautiful. What a great idea to do with the kids – pushing the rock – I can imagine that as children, they thought they were actually moving it! The regatta must have been fun – what an easy-going, flexible people! I was telling the hub today about your trip, and I think we are now planning a trip up that way – it looks breathtaking and wonderful. Have a good rest-of-the-trip!
AUGH I want to live in Newfoundland. I have a friend who has family up there; once she knew someone who was selling a yarn shop in the area. I remember immediately looking for SOME way I could convince Canada that I needed to emigrate. 😀
Someday! *shakes fist* SOMEDAY!
Lovely, lovely trip, and thank you for taking us with you.
Love the dog picture; I swear that dog is smiling. Happy day for all, eh?
Loved the trip, thank you
Nan
Such wonderful pixs such wonderful stories wish I was there although you provide a vivid and lovely account for us poor souls slogging away here in the lower 48. Ta P
Now that you’ve documented the pubbing, we believe it is a proper Harlot vacation.
Lovely pink sock. And to think the places it’s been! No moss on it, eh?
I have to say, Stephanie, that your blog does much good for Canada tourism. Wednesday night I was sitting around plotting to take a train up to Toronto and then go up to northern Manitoba to see the northern lights. In winter, of course. I’m from Chicago, we do cold… but I have a sneaking suspicion we do not do THAT cold. I even emailed Parks Canada yesterday to find out about when the Rideau Canal can be ice skated upon because when you posted that story, it looked like so much fun.
I really think you should get a kickback from the tourism folks for this one. You’re certainly doing more than the CTA ads for Ontario outdoorsy tourism, featuring the guy who wants me to go fishing. (Nothing against fishing. I like fishing. I just don’t like fish!) The only problem here is that, I don’t know if you’ve noticed or not, but there seems to be an awful lot of Canada that’s rather pretty and it’s a little hard to pick out just one place. So I’m just saying, if you know of any fiber festivals coming up, maybe that would narrow it down a little…
“Oh, Canada! …The true north strong and free. And far and wide, oh, Canada, we stand on guard for thee…”
Guard thy country well, for she births strong, resolute, creative, amazing people. I salute thee, Canada, for thy beauty and strength.
*showing my age* Here’s to “The Maple Leaf Forever”!
From your friend/fan in Music City.
Looks like a really fun day (although I have to admit the cliffs would be giving me conniptions too). The little Ferris wheel reminds me we haven’t take the grands to Kiddieland (http://www.kiddieland.com – an institution in the Chicago area – I went there as a child as did my children & now the grands – I think there are families where 4 generations have been going – it is a delightful place & only a few miles from our house – actually across the street from our health club) yet this year & school starts in another 10 days or so. Maybe Monday or Tuesday.
I believe that just might be a Newfoundland Duck Tolling Retriever. Good dog, that.
Loving your travelogue and especially the pictures – thanks so much for sharing your vacation!
My parents have just bought a house in Newfoundland (despite the fact that we live in Alberta – my mother is from Newfoundland and now they own a summer home there. Only crazy people would buy their summer home in Newfoundland, but I digress.) and my husband and I are heading out there next summer. I haven’t been since I was a kid, so I’m taking notes on all your Newfoundland trips!
OMG! Samosas! Way up there in Newfoundland? I suppose it’s not difficult to believe Indians have settled there too. I’m not Indian but have many Indian friends here in Dubai and they would be delighted to see this photo.
Love the Hibiscus for Hope sock!
Chips and gravy, mmmmmm. Oh I mean, lovely sock.
Cliffs…Oh No! No, No, No, No, No! But the rest sounds like fun! Love the pink sock…will have to sponsor her for that pattern!
That looks like so much fun!
Those cliffs would give me the heebie-jeebies, too, especially if my kids were cavorting around them. (I almost got blown off a cliff in the Badlands of South Dakota once when a sudden, remarkably strong, gust of wind blew up unexpectedly, so I’m a bit of a wuss now.)
Are those hockey sticks on the ceiling of the pub? *squints* Awesome. And you’re about 10000x more brave than I…I’d never attempt that hike. ::shivers::
I’m just gonna have to stop reading your blog until your back on the Mainland.. Fries with dressing and gravy and Moose burgers. So darn jealous. You’re killing me here. Dressing and Gravy is my favourite thing in the whole wide world. Even better is when you combine Mary Browns’ Taters with dressing and gravy. OH MY! Oh any by the way that is quite a nice sock you’ve got there.. all the newfoundland beauty is distracting me from the knitting content.
What a great time it looks like you’re all having. I love your pink sock. I’ll have to donate for that pattern, it’s beautiful.
So, do the carnival folk wait to set up until they get the OK for the regatta?
The last time I couldn’t wait to see your daily adventure was when you were in the cabin by yourself trying to finish your writing. This holiday is so great—I cracked up about the Lakeside Motel–aka the jail. Also I forgot the name of the police is the constabulary! You have great in-laws Stephanie!
It would have been even more perfect if Great Big Sea had been there playing.
And mooseburgers! Hilarious! (they’re not serious, are they? Like we have kangaroo steaks here in Australia?)
What a wonderful holdiay! Thank you for taking us along.
yum yum! such a pretty pink sock. looks good enough to eat! like cotton candy! you are making the Rock look pretty enticing. How much longer til the family returns to TO? and i always wonder how people who grow up by the sea can stand to move away from it. does your joe suffer from ocean-withdrawal now that he’s a mainlander?
what a wonderful holiday you are sharing with us – and a nice reminder that some of the best holidays happen when the weather doesn’t cooperate fully. There’s always knitting to bring some sunshine into the day – REALLY nice sock !!
We have a great Country….I’m very proud to be a Canadian when I see scenes like that. We have some great spot here in Quebec too !!! Thanks for sharing your trip with us!
I have so enjoyed sharing your vacation. I’ve always thought Newfoundland must be a wonderful place and your photos and chatter have shown that to be true. I love your pink sock too! Enjoy, Jean
I’m with both Joes on this one. A little danger is good for kids just like a little dirt is good for the immune system.
Unbelievable scenery, my dear. Glorious. Incredible. I envy your vacation. Watch the slippery rocks, though. We don’t need the Harlot breaking a leg.
It just breaks my heart to read your NFLD posts. I was wrenched out of that place when I was nine, and I have mourned it ever since. Next year in St. John’s; next year in the holy land! 😀
I am totally enjoying this holiday for yours, those rocks/boulders,cliffs just have my feet and legs itching (I believe I might’ve been a mountain goat in a past life). I love your Old Joe, his sensibilities… afterall he raised your sweet Joe.
Have you asked Carole how she felt when Joe was a lad growing up amidst all that ‘danger’? :^)
The cotton coverlet on the bed… earned a resounding *whump*, what a Beauty! Hibiscus is also a Beauty, huh? short row heel? (another little whump). You are all indeed making good time!
Stephanie, this post makes me want to go to the “Rock” for my next vacation. We just got back from a trip to the Maritimes in July. My first time ever and loved it. Is it something in the Atlantic that makes people so nice and down to earth. Maybe it’s just that scenery.
Your story of the hike reminds me of a time many years ago when we were at Ouimet Canyon near Thunder Bay with our visiting brother and sister inlaw. The guys were ahead of us girls and all of a sudden my sister inlaw lets out a beller that could of broke glass. The guys were on the ledge of the canyon. You see my husband has a personal defect that attracts him to dangerous spots and high places. She screamed get the hell away from the edge to 2 grown men. Scared me most because I thought the scream was going to send them tumbling over. We still laugh about it over 20 years later.
Stephanie! I’m over here, in PEI – can you see me waving? Wait up – I’m hopping in my car and I’m coming right over! What’s that? I’m on an island and so are you and that means that I can’t just drive over?
Shoot!
Ok, so I’m putting on my swimming fins and I should be there in no time! Could you have a towel ready for me when I get there?
Thank you so much for including us in your wonderful vacation! I have been following your trip and living vicariously.
Thanks for the tour of Newfoundland, I am not getting a holiday (again) this year, (farmer husband working kids).
I too am fearful of my kids and husband leaning over cliffs just to look, I’d rather not watch.
Dude, Pretty l’il pink sockie!!! (Okay, I just ripped part of that out of the Mutts comic strip… Don’t sue, I don’t have any money!!!)
Adn as for Cliffs of Doom, I’d so be giving my mom a total head of white hair peering over the edge. But then, I’m evil like that.
Do not lecture daughters about anything when your feet are not solidly planted somewhere safe. My mother fell off our roof and broke her pelvis while attempting to teach my sister about ladder safety. Why were they on the roof in the first place? To take a picture of the sunset, of course. (No, no sock. They don’t knit.)
If you must lecture from precarious positions, make sure the daughter in question has descended to more stable territory so she can catch you when you fall. Leaving the daughter stranded on the roof with no ladder while you bleed down below is not practical.
Steph, I just LOVE the commentary about almost slipping off the path because you were getting ready to tell Sam to be more careful. Haven’t you learned yet that one must teach by example, not by mere words alone? You did a stellar job there, girl. (snort!)
Joe may possibly be onto something there with the whole too much coffee business. Kinda makes one jittery, feet slip on the trails, excessive worry and panic about daughters …
Hope the rest of your holiday is as wonderful as the first part has been.
Gotta love regattas! Thanks for sharing the photos.
Wow, so much fun! I have a feeling that not many people in Newfoundland need instant gratification! You get much more by waiting until the right time!
I seriously love that pink sock. It’s feminine, lacy and PANK. That’s a triple play here in CH.
Looks like a wonderful vacation. Thanks for taking us along. (and tell your DH there’s no such thing as less coffee)
Socks are gorgeous. I am immeasurably jealous.
Hey Stephanie,
Maybe you can answer this for me…I’ve heard it both ways. Which is correct? “NEW FOUND LAND” or
NewFUNLUND???
Thanks…
What a wonderful family vacation. Enjoy!
I want to live there.
Stephanie, you must be the best ambassador Canada has ever had!!!
I am really enjoying your articles about Newfoundland and now want to got there (I am the only member of our family who hasn’t made the trek from Toronto).
The new issue of Vogue Knitting is all about Canada and I was just bursting wiht pride when I finished reading the articles; you are quoted often; I loved it, even tho’ my husband said “why are they talking about Canada in a knitting magazine?”
I didn’t even try to explain…..
Any place in which a regatta is a big holiday is cool with me! That looks like it was a lot of fun.
I am really enjoying following your vacation….makes me feel like I am there!
Oh, I am so in lust with Canada.
Again, gorgeous pictures! Thank you for sharing your vacation with all if us. I hope the rest of your vacation is as much fun!!
Beautiful socks! I love the yarn and the pattern, and what a good cause 🙂
Regatta Note: The whole province does not get Regatta Day off – only St. John’s. The rest of the province takes the Monday Civic Holiday.
I don’t think your packing proportions are out of whack. If it gets cold, you can always line the inside of your clothing with wool yarn! It might make you look like Randy, (Ralphie’s little brother from A Christmas Story), but at least you would be warm!
I want to move there. I wonder if my husband can find a job (note to self,check on this).It looks so quiet and wonderful with no fast food restaurants, outlet malls or super big chain stores and the weather is perfect for knitting. Sigh. The sock is lovely.
Your packing sounds about right–so does your terror. I know that terror-and for the most part, my husband laughs at me. (We do have mutual cramps, though, when the littlest keeps trying to climb railings… but she’s 2.)
I hope you ate a moose burger! They are soooooo good. I agree with Joe and Old Joe cliffs are good for kids. (PS Be glad you weren’t hiking in some of the places I lived in BC, watching the girls would have definitely caused some sort of panick.)
Those chips and gravy look soooooo good right now.
I rowed in college. There’s just nothing like it, especially on calm water. How great that people actually celebrate a regatta. I’ve got to get up there sometime. Is Great Big Sea a musical guest? Now THAT would make it a perfect festival in my book. 🙂 Great sock pattern, BTW…
Thank you for sharing your vacation with the blog. I hope you are getting a kick back from the agency that promotes Canadian travel. You are one of their best ambassadors! The pictures are gorgeous and the sock is also lovely. Jane
hi Stephanie, I hope you and your family are enjoying yout hols as much as I am! I really want to go to Newfoundland for my hols, I’m ctually going to Scotland so there should be some rugged scenery and def some rain!!
Love Janey
Old Joe must be talking about old ladies who are in as good shape as he appears to be! ..maybe the result of the vitamins and minerals in black horse and screech and all that aerobic hiking exercise.
I love that you call him “Old Joe.”
bravo
Have been to most of the eastern Canadian provinces as a girl, but not Newfoundland. After viewing your pictures I have put it on the must-go-there list. Thanks for sharing!
A previous commenter suggested the dog in the photo is a “Newfoundland Duck Tolling Retriever” however, there is no such breed. There is however a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. The dog in the photo might be a distant cousin of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever.
The dog breeds, which originated in NFLD & Labrador, are Newfoundland dog, Labrador Retriever.
So, glad you are enjoying your time down here on the East Coast, waving from Nova Scotia.
Snort, ‘hike for little old ladies’, made me laugh. I used to pretty much freak out when the kid (any kid, not just my own) played on the rocks with pounding surf below. ‘cliffs of doom’, what a great name. Years ago a friend of mine lived in Winnipeg w/ a family who had family coming to North America from Ireland. The Irelanders asked the Winnipegers if they’d meet them in NY at the airport. To which they received this answer, ‘meet yourself, you’ll be closer’.
I’m glad you had a good holiday. It’s funny how things are like that up in Newfoundland. Here in CA, the only time we had impromptu holidays were when things were on fire and then it wasn’t really a holiday; more of a sitting around listening for the evac signal. ^^;;
Wow!
That looks like a seep and wool festival, only with boats instead of wool!
The wind would be blowing off the water and helping push everybody away from the edge, right? I hope.
My then-new sister-in-law became an instant hero to me when she grabbed me and braced us both and saved me as I with my bad balance started to pitch off a rock in Monterey Bay. And that was only six or seven feet to fall off of.
Your vacation is grand and glorious. What pictures!
A dish made of potatoes AND bread??? I’m moving there!
And, please, what are samosas? (Yes, I know I can google it, but it wouldn’t be complete without the Stephanie charm.)
Again, Beautiful, beautiful — can’t believe anyone (Joe?) would ever leave there. This is a place Canada can be proud of!!!!
What a wonderful vacation for your family.
Did you buy yarn??
Sounds like a wonderful way for a village or town to have a holiday. Sigh
I cannot wait for the boys to get a bit bigger to take them to Nfld! My mom is thoroughly enjoying my daily calls, updating her on the Regatta, etc. She has fond memories. She lived in St. Johns for a bit, after leaving Catalina and before Toronto.
Does Joe’s family make a dish called Fish & Brewse? (I’m winging the spelling). My mom used to make it when I was little and it was the best. She hasn’t made it in about 10 years as she claims the salt cod just isn’t the same anymore.
What a wonderful trip! Absolutely beautiful…
It seems like ya’ll are having a great time! I love your finished sock. Please be careful on the clifts.
Lovely sock, and lovely restful vacation for you — thanks for letting us share it!
I’m with you. Pushing it then sitting on it does NOT make sense!
I am really enjoying the holiday posts, here in far off OZ we are in the middle of Winter and the weather looks remarkably similar!! The socks are starting to get to me though, I’ve never knitted a sock before and I’m really starting to be tempted 🙂 Enjoy the rest of your holiday, it looks like you are having a lovely time.
i tried the NONIA web site. it’s under construction. drat!
thanks for taking us all on your vacation, stephanie — how did you find room for wool with so many of us along? and who knew there were samosas in newfoundland?
one of my future vacation hopes is to cross as much of canada by rail as possible — a far more civilized way to travel than flying, and one can knit in peace — which isn’t true of driving oneself.
enjoy what’s left of your holiday!
ellen
I have recently found your blog and am thoroughly enjoying it. Have gone back and read all of 2007 blogs. I have wanted to learn to knit sox for myself but the patterns I have found all have a seam on the toe that bothers my feet. I read of the trick to cast on from the toe and copied that but I would like to have a basic sock pattern to learn on. Also, what do you use to reinforce the heels and toes? I would appreciate any info you could help me with. I am neck deep in making booties for pregnancy crises centers in California but would like to have a diversion of the socks. Thank you in advance. I’m so impressed by all that you do!
How utterly wonderful – I think I would be in tears hearing the band amidst it all. The hike did not look like an old lady at all!! Thank you so much for the pictures.
Wait—there’s no Saturday mail delivery? How have I not noticed that yet? I mean, Sunday, sure, but Saturday?
This … explains a lot, actually.
My future travel list has just expanded greatly by your travelogue. Other than being in Toronto once, years ago, Canada has to be bumped up on my list. Beautiful pink sock, hope the future mate arrives soon.
Newfoundland is an amazing place. I think everyone who goes there leaves a little piece of their heart behind when they leave. I know I do.
A little bit of danger is good for kids. Teaches them common sense.
I liked the picture of the dog best!
And I am so amused by Old Joe wearing shorts, when your Joe is in a jacket and jeans…..but it IS summer, eh?
It’s “New-fund-land, un-der-stand”. You’ll never get it wrong again.
Hi Stephanie – This has been a lot of fun to read! What is a “black horse”? I’ve never seen potatos and gravy dressing! It sounds like a carb-lovers dream come true… Thanks for letting us travel vicariously through you guys! My eight year old has been looking too and loves the pictures – he wants to go next summer.
Love the sock!
Is it my imagination or are the coxwains for the womens’ teams men? I thought the coxwains were whatever gender the rest of the team is.
My mom’s family came from Nova Scotia and your pictures are reminding my of my desire to visit the east coast of Canada.
Enjoy your time of rest!!!
What an amazing vacation! Thank you for taking us away with you…..
Sara
I, too, want to know what a “black horse” is.
Here I am in hot sultry Oklahoma, and greatly appreciate these Newfoundland posts. For a moment I thought I could feel cool damp air. What a treat! Thanks so much
OK anywhere you can get samosas has got my vote…I’m tempted to go out to the kitchen and start cooking some…nah…getting some sleep b4 my alarm goes off at sparrowfart sounds even better
A Black horse is a beer…maybe a lager. not sure.
I’m visiting a village out in the country on a Greek island this summer. The next closest village (only 1km away) is up on a hill like a stereotypical Greek village. Up at the top is a big tower. I took my mom walking up there a few days ago, and she barely made it. Between the extremely steep roads (if the could be called that – one car can’t fit down most of them), the heat, and her not being used to the length of walk I took her on, she was ready to have a long break with a big bottle of water at the tower. Then we saw these two sweet little old Greek ladies at the top of the hill filling up a jug of water and walking back down the treacherous roads to their houses.
Moral of the story: Old ladies in treacherous places can do crazy things.
This has been such a wonderful, interesting set of posts! Thanks for sharing your vacation with us!
I am so with you on the kids-on-edges-of-cliffs thing. I think if my son ever slipped in an area like that, I would, unhelpfully, faint.
Beautiful new sock. Glad you had a great time. (stuffing on French fries?)
thanks so much for posting these photos and all your stories–i’m originally from st. john’s and haven’t been home in over 5 years. and thanks to this, in some tiny way i’ve gone home too!
happy knitting m’dear!
It certainly sounds better (spectator-wise) than the Head of the Charles!